Hwa Heng: 76-year-old veteran cooking char kway teow & Hokkien mee for over 62 years

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Not to be confused with the old Hwa Heng Beef Noodles that relocated to Upper Boon Keng Market in Nov 2025 , Hwa Heng at Bendemeer Market & Food Centre specialises in 3 dishes: Hokkien mee, char kway teow, and the not-so-common Penang char kway teow.

I arrived at 11.10am and saw that the stall’s signboard and lights were still dim — the hawker couple were still busy getting ready for service. But, guess what? There were already a few people hanging around the stall front, anxiously waiting to place their orders.

hwa heng - stall front

Hwa Heng is helmed by 76-year-old Mr Lim and his wife. If you happen to spot him out of the stall’s operating hours, you might mistake him for just another grandpa who spends his time playing Chinese chess with his pals in the heartland courtyards.

hwa heng - couple

But nope — here he is, commanding the wok like a cool cucumber while taking instructions from his wife, who handles customer orders and prepares the condiments and cutlery. Sir, I only hope I can be as strong and healthy like you when I get to your age.

Mrs Lim is stern, a little hunch-backed, and kind of reminds me of a veteran samsui woman. Some might be intimidated by her poker face, no-nonsense demeanour, but she thanks people for their support and reminds them to carry their food carefully. She’s nicer than you think.

Oh, a little something I learnt — Mr Lim has been doing this even before he turned 16, when he was cooking as a street hawker in Whampoa. Do note that this stall only opens 4 days a weekTuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays.

What to order at Hwa Heng

hwa heng - char kway teow

I started my lunch with the Fried Kway Teow (S$4), a mixture of flat rice noodles and yellow mee complemented by lup cheong slices, tau geh, egg and cockles. In case if you’re wondering, fishcake is not served here. Mrs Lim had probably forgotten to add a spoonful of pork lard by the side, as the customer in front of me had it with his order. That’s perfectly alright.

hwa heng - char kway teow closeup

I took the first spoonful and that irresistible smoky wok hei flavour which I adore in this dish was present at a decent level, but it quickly dissipated within seconds. It was there — just not quite pronounced enough to linger in my mouth. The noodles weren’t too wet nor too dry, sitting perfectly in the middle and seasoned perfectly with a mild hint of sweet sauce. I asked for it to be spicy but didn’t really feel any fiery heat — friendly enough for your anti-spice dining partners!

hwa heng - lup cheong

The ingredients like the lup cheong and sea hum were decent and I had nothing to complain about.

hwa heng - hokkien mee

Next, the Fried Hokkien Prawn Mee (S$4) will appeal to purists. It uses thin bee hoon instead of the thicker rice noodles typically found in laksa, together with yellow mee (as I’ve learned), paired with 2 prawns, pieces of sotong, pork belly, and a halved calamansi.

hwa heng - hokkien mee closeup

There was more thin bee hoon than yellow mee, and I found the noodles a little too soft for my liking — a bit more bite would’ve made the dish better overall.

hwa heng - hokkien mee seafood

The seafood was fresh, with each variety cooked just right, especially the squid, which didn’t feel like I was chewing on rubber bands.

hwa heng - hokkien mee pork belly

I would’ve preferred if there was more than 1 piece of pork belly in the dish. However, at just S$4, I shan’t complain too much.

hwa heng - hokkien mee sambal

The sambal was just mildly spicy, with not much depth of flavour. A more citrusy or umami-rich version with dried shrimp would’ve taken it to the next level.

hwa heng - penang char kway teow

Unfortunately, the Penang Fried Kway Teow (S$4) didn’t quite hit the mark. It’s paired with similar ingredients as the Fried Kway Teow but with added fishcake.

hwa heng - penang char kway teow closeup

The kway teow exuded a mild peppery heat that crept slowly across my tongue at the end of each mouthful. But other than that, the flavour was rather bland and the wok hei, unlike the first dish, was missing. I expected the spice level to be a little more robust, but again, it felt like no chilli was added.

hwa heng - cockles

The cockles, again, were plump, juicy and fresh. Their ‘sea’ flavour lent a hand in giving more layers of taste in this 1-dimensional dish.

Who Hwa Heng is best for

I reckon the heritage, old-school flavours of Hwa Heng would appeal more to the older generation, who tend to have a more traditional palate. Char kway teow fans, give their rendition a try — it’s the best out of the 3, in my humble opinion.

How to get there?

The nearest MRT station to Bendemeer Market & Food Centre is Boon Keng (NE9), which only requires a short 5-minute walk to get there. Alternatively, there are several bus services that will take you to these bus stops: Opp Boon Keng Stn and Boon Keng Stn/Blk 102.

Do we recommend Hwa Heng?

hwa heng - overview

In all honesty, I wouldn’t travel all the way here from the other end of Singapore just to patronise Hwa Heng. However, if I was in the area and had time to spare, I wouldn’t mind coming back just for the char kway teow. Skip the Penang char kway teow if you can’t make up your mind, and manage your expectations when you have a go at the Hokkien mee — it’s decent but not mind-blowing. In this economy, the S$4 and S$5 pricing is very reasonable.

These days, it’s rare to find veteran stalls like this still existing. While the food here isn’t the best, there’s a certain old-world charm that defies description — a kind of quiet allure that shines in its own light.

 

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The post Hwa Heng: 76-year-old veteran cooking char kway teow & Hokkien mee for over 62 years appeared first on SETHLUI.com.

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