This classic Italian dessert hails from Emilia-Romagna in northern Italy, though today it’s beloved throughout much of northern and central Italy. Its exact origins remain a little mysterious, but food historians believe Zuppa Inglese first appeared in the sixteenth century in the kitchens of the Dukes of Este in Ferrara. According to legend, the dukes asked their cooks to recreate the elegant English trifles they had enjoyed on their travels, and from that request, Zuppa Inglese was born.
Traditionally, Zuppa Inglese is prepared by dipping ladyfingers or brushing layers of sponge cake with Alchermes (also spelled Alkermes), a bright pink, spiced liqueur. The dessert is then assembled with alternating layers of liqueur-soaked cookies or cake and rich pastry cream. Many regional versions—including my own—also include layers of chocolate pastry cream for added depth. The finished dessert is often crowned with meringue, sliced almonds, or shaved chocolate.
I hadn’t made Zuppa Inglese at home since we lived in Milan over twenty years ago, largely because authentic Alchermes is nearly impossible to find in North America. This year, however, I brought home a small bottle from Umbria specifically so I could make this dessert for my family at Christmas. Alchermes is a Tuscan liqueur made by infusing alcohol with sugar, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, vanilla, and various aromatic herbs. Its vivid pink color—once derived from cochineal insects—makes it instantly recognizable. Slightly syrupy, sweet, and warmly spiced, it’s the perfect complement to creamy desserts. Because it can be difficult to source outside Italy, I’ve included a recipe for homemade Alchermes from CooksInfo.com if you’d like to try making your own. Mario Batali suggests Sassolino or Mandorla Amara as substitutes, while others recommend Curacao or Grand Marnier tinted with grenadine. I’ve even heard of pomegranate liqueur being used in a pinch.
I had originally planned to bake the sponge cake ahead of time for this year’s Christmas dessert, but while holiday shopping I came across soft, delicate ladyfingers (savoiardi) at Trader Joe’s that were perfect for layering. This dessert can be prepared a day in advance, making it especially convenient for holiday entertaining, and it’s stunning when served in a clear glass trifle bowl so all the colorful layers shine through. I made a generous trifle for Christmas Day that served twelve of us—with enough left over to enjoy the next day.
Buon Appetito!
Deborah Mele
Ingredients
Zuppa Inglese:
- 1 1/2 Liters Whole Milk
- 1 1/2 Teaspoons Vanilla Extract
- 6 Large Eggs
- 12 Tablespoons Sugar
- 6 Tablespoons Corn Starch
- 5 Ounces Dark Chocolate, Chopped
- Alchermes Liqueur (See Notes Above)
- 24 Savoiardi Cookies
Garnish:
- 3 Ounces Shaved Dark Chocolate
- Mint Leaves
- Fresh Raspberries
Homemade Alchermes Liqueur:
- 1/2 Teaspoon Cardamom
- 1 Teaspoon Cinnamon
- 1/2 Teaspoon Coriander
- 4 Cloves
- 1/4 Teaspoon Ground Star Anise Fruit
- 1/2 Vanilla Pod
- 2 Cups of 90% Alcohol
- 1 Cup of Water
- 2 Cups Sugar
- 1/2 Cup Rose Water
- Red Food Coloring or Grenadine
Instructions
- Heat the milk in a heavy bottomed saucepan with the vanilla and sugar until it begins to simmer.
- Remove from the heat.
- Whisk together the eggs and corn starch in a separate pan, being careful to remove any lumps.
- Slowly begin to pour the hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking continually to prevent the eggs from coagulating.
- Place the pan over low heat, and whisk continually until the mixture begins to thicken, about 7 to 8 minutes.
- Remove the custard from the heat and divide between two bowls.
- Add the chocolate to one bowl, and stir until melted.
- Pour a cup of the liqueur along with a cup of water into a bowl.
- Quickly dip the sponge cookies into the Alchermes mixture, barely wetting them, and then layer the cookies across the bottom of your trifle bowl.
- Spoon some of the custard over the cookies, then continue to assemble the trifle, alternating the chocolate and regular pastry cream custards.
- Finish with a custard layer.
- Refrigerate the trifle for at least 4 to 6 hours (or overnight), then decorate with the shaved chocolate, mint leaves and berries before serving.
- For The Alchermes Liqueur, crush together the cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, 2 of the cloves, the star anise, and the vanilla.
- Put in a bottle along with the alcohol and the water.
- Seal the bottle, and for the next two weeks, shake twice daily.
- Add enough cold water to the sugar to dissolve it, then add this to the bottle.
- Shake well, seal up again, and let sit another two days.
- Then filter it, mix in the rose water, and it is ready to be bottled and used.