The Great Smash Debate: When to Flatten Your Burger

smash burgers earlier this summer. Many commenters were critical of the method, insisting that the raw burgers should be smashed before meeting the hot griddle—not afterward. Our position? By smashing the burger directly on the cooking surface, you maximize the contact points, leading to a better, browner, tastier, and more texturally pleasing crust (it’s called the Maillard reaction). Which is the whole darn point of smash burgers.

That, and they’re economical fare for an easy family meal, requiring only a few ounces of ground beef per serving. As for equipment, you’ll need a smooth-surfaced griddle or large skillet, preferably cast iron. Next, you’ll require a large heavy-duty spatula (or two) with a thin leading edge, a burger press, or even a clean plasterer’s trowel (a tip we learned from food authority and smash burger aficionado J. Kenzi López-Alt). Parchment paper cut into 6-inch squares is optional.

*Avoid ground meat that is too lean. A mix that is 20 or even 25 percent fat works best. For a luxurious burger, use Wagyu. Chill well.

*Divide the meat into four equal portions, each 4 to 5 ounces—a bit larger than golf balls. Place on a rimmed sheet pan, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to cook.

*Make a special sauce (See Recipe), if desired. Set aside or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

*Heat the griddle or pan until hot—about 450 to 500 degrees. Drops of water dribbled on the cooking surface will evaporate immediately.

*Assemble your tools and condiments near the griddle before you begin.

*Lightly butter the cut sides of the buns and toast on the griddle; this will go quickly—1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

*Arrange the raw, cold burger portions on the griddle, leaving about 3 inches between each. After a few seconds, top each with a piece of parchment, if using, and use your spatula or another tool to press firmly down on the meat (use two spatulas positioned at right angles to each other for more pressure) until the patty is approximately 1/3 to 1/2 inch thick. Be sure to smash the burgers during the first 30 seconds of cooking to maximize juiciness. Season the top with salt and freshly ground black pepper. After 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, flip the burgers with the spatula, making sure to capture all the crispy bits. Continue to cook for another minute.

*Smear the cut side of each bottom bun with sauce, if using, or spreadable condiments, top with a leaf of lettuce. Add the burger, then the remaining ingredients of your choice, then smear the cut side of the top bun with more sauce. (Be generous, if you wish.) Serve immediately.

Check out our 1000+ Recipes section here on Barbecue Bible.Com

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