I am often asked to recommend places to visit in İstanbul. It is a fascinating city with so much to see and enjoy, not least the captivating historical sites of Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace and the Basilica Cistern (one of my personal favourites). If you enjoy modern art, İstanbul Modern is well worth a visit. Whatever you decide to do, may I suggest you don’t overcrowd your days and take some time to relax – perhaps with a cup of Turkish coffee – so you can watch İstanbul unfold in front of you. I have recently returned from İstanbul, it was special to visit this magical city with my son, and seeing family. There were much excitement too, as I took a sample copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, Delicious recipes from the heart of the city, to show family. Here are some of my favourite things to experience in the Queen of the cities.
Some of my favourite eateries For the ultimate ocakbaşı-style kebab and meze experience, look no further than Zübeyir Ocakbaşı. For delicious regional specialties, I head to Sinem Özler’s Seraf Vadi and Musa Dağdeviren’s Çiya Sofrası. For traditional Turkish specialties, Karaköy Lokantası and Borsa Restaurants are amongst my favourites places to eat in İstanbul. Sahrap Soysal’s Sahrap’ın Ev Yemekleri restaurant in the international departures section of İstanbul Airport also serves delicious food with traditional Turkish flavours. The original Sultanahmet koftecisi (Selim Usta) in Sultanahmet is wonderful too, with succulent kofte and bean piyaz salad.
I love our Turkish breakfast, Kahvalti – every neighbourhood offers our favourite meal. Namli in Karakoy, Sade Kahve in Rumeli Hisari, amongst my favourite spots. You would be happy to know that Menemen and Sigara boregi are included at my new cookbook ISTANBUL too.
Eat like a local at an esnaf lokantası In the past, these humble yet iconic institutions provided the working men of İstanbul with affordable, nourishing, home-style meals, though today they are enjoyed by everyone. Great value, they are some of my favourite eateries. I love the delightful Makbule Hanım Lokantası in Mahmutbey. Balkan Lokantası in Besiktaş and Lades in Beyoğlu were regular hangouts of my dear father, Orhan – I’m grateful to have enjoyed countless Süzme Mercimek Çorbası at these places with him.
Spices, nuts, Turkish Delight Mısır Çarşısı, İstanbul’s historic, vibrant Spice Market, is a must-see, Malatya Pazari there offers fresh nuts, Turkish delights and spices. Erdem Bey Kuruyemiş in Beşiktaş, and Koz İstanbul Kuruyemiş in Kadıköy, are wonderful choices too for nuts and dried fruit. Kuru Kahveci Mehmet Efendi Turkish coffee shop at the entrance of Spice Market is lovely to visit and get Turkish coffee.
Bosphorus boat tour The Bosphorus is the lifeline of the city, connecting the European and Asian sides of İstanbul. I highly recommend taking either a scenic boat trip along the strait or using the vapur (local ferries) to cruise between the two sides. You can also hop on and off from vapur to enjoy delicacies in each district, for instance the famous, creamy yoghurt in Kanlıca.
Enjoy sokak yemekleri (street food) There is a vibrant street food scene in İstanbul offering huge variety, so indulge yourself by sampling Simit, Açma, Gözleme , Balık Ekmek, Lokma and Köz Mısır, as well as the freshest of juices, pickles and more, just as the locals do; all these recipes are included at my cookery book ISTANBUL too.
Discover multicultural İstanbul Known for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, the Kurtuluş district (formerly known as Tatavla) was historically a prominent Greek Orthodox and Armenian neighbourhood, has a strong Orthodox Greek and Armenian patisserie culture, and is also home to a few kosher bakeries. Here you can enjoy Paskalya Çöreği at Üstün Palmie Pastanesi, Borekitas at Kurtuluş Pastanesi and Armenian specialties such as Topik and midye dolma at Marinee and Mezme restaurants. For Sephardic Jewish specialties such as borekitas, head to Büyükada Pastanesi in Big Island. And if you have a spare day, I recommend visiting the beautiful, multicultural Princes’ Islands, which are a very pleasant hour’s ferry trip away from İstanbul.
Strolling through delightful Arnavutkoy with my son.
Use public transport İstanbul has an efficient public transport system – Metro (subway), buses, trams and ferries – which I use all the time. It offers good value and means you avoid the traffic. The city is best discovered, though, by walking – go off the beaten track to check out local neighbourhoods.
Visit the city’s pazar (farmers’ markets) Almost every neighbourhood has one, showcasing a huge variety of seasonal produce, including dried fruits, olives and nuts, as well as textiles and so much more. The pazar are the heartbeat of their neighbourhoods and a great way to observe and be a part of local life. Whenever I go to one, I always make time to have a bite of gözleme, accompanied by a glass of çay (Turkish tea), just as I used to do with my dear father, Orhan. 4th Levent Salı pazarı, Fatih Çarsamba pazarı, Besiktaş pazarı and Kadiköy Salı pazarı are among my favourites.
Discover modern İstanbul It is worth taking the Metro (subway) to discover the modern side of İstanbul and observe local life, if you can. I lived in 4th Levent in the modern, European side of the city for more than 15 years, which is a lovely, residential neighbourhood with a gorgeous Tuesday farmers’ market, Salı pazarı. After work, I loved driving to the Arnavutköy and Bebek districts to walk along the Bosphorus with my mother, Gülçin. We would then enjoy a glass of çay (Turkish tea) at Bebek Kahve whilst we watched the world go by. Sade Kahve in Rumehisarı, overlooking the Rumeli Fortress and the Bosphorus, also holds happy memories of having leisurely Turkish breakfasts there with my family.
İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets If you enjoy experiencing local life and eateries off the beaten track, I highly recommend taking an İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets. They offer a unique, in-depth exploration of the city’s culinary scene, showcasing the city’s diverse culinary culture.
Take a hands-on Turkish cookery class It really is special to take a hands-on Turkish cookery class when in İstanbul, learning how to enjoy the abundant seasonal produce and a variety of spices. I love teaching at Cookistan (cookistan.com). They also run their own wonderful cookery classes in their beautiful, friendly studio.
I lived in Istanbul over 15 years and our time with family always meant the most. Revisiting family, places with memories. I hope you make your own special memory in this magical city. For delicious recipes from Istanbul, places to visit, tips , you can order a copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, here.