Food|Pairings: Rosados and Duck
Can a rosé be macho? Appropriate for the guy mopping the ribs with sauce as they sizzle? Listen up before you grab that beer.
Muscular rosés from Spain have too much heft for a salade niçoise or those lovely little stuffed vegetables you might enjoy in Provence. They’re even too much for the piquillos stuffed with salt cod on the Costa Brava. They belong with easygoing platters of burgers, sausages and ribs, contributing refreshing acidity on a warm summer day.
Well chilled, they are excellent aperitif wines before a sturdier red with dinner. In that case, these meaty duck satés, grilled skewers graced with Asian flavors, make suitable nibbles with the wines, picking up notes of fruit and spice along the way. I could even imagine these wines, which cut a rich swath of garnacha, made into a sangria by adding orange slices and a splash of Grand Marnier. I’d drink that with the duck, too.
Time: 30 minutes, plus 2 hours’ refrigeration
1 duck breast (magret)
1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
Salt and pepper
Juice and grated zest of 1 orange
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar.
1. Place 16 12-inch bamboo skewers in water to soak. Peel the skin and fat off the duck breast (see note). Slice the breast at an angle, across the grain, about 1/4-inch thick. You should have about 16 slices. Lay them on a cutting board, cover with plastic and lightly pound with a mallet or the side of a cleaver.
2. Dust duck slices on both sides with the five-spice powder, salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.
3. In a bowl, combine the orange juice, zest and hoisin. Thread each duck slice onto a skewer. Brush on both sides with some sauce. Add the vinegar to the remaining sauce.
4. Prepare a grill or a grill pan to very hot. Grill or sear the skewers until the duck is lightly browned, turning once, not more than a minute on each side. Arrange on a serving platter. Lightly drizzle some sauce over the duck and pass the rest in a small dish on the side.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
Note: Do not discard the skin and fat. Dice them and place in a saucepan over low heat until the fat has liquefied. Strain the fat into a container and refrigerate to use for cooking. Save the crisped skin for salads or a snack.